In the red zone
December 12, 2011
Next day we have an invitation to lunch at the British Embassy with the Director of the Iraqi office of the British Council and to meet the Ambassador. The Iraqis don't seem too keen, but I am anxious for them to be shown some official UK hospitality. And I've never been to the Green Zone. Home to rich politicians, diplomats and swanky hotels, it may as well be on the moon to most Iraqis. I'm very curious.
To humour me, Monadhil and Hayder put on suits and Hayder drives us, despite his punishing schedule in the hugely popular commercial show playing to packed houses at the National Theatre. I promise he'll be back in time for the matinee. Smiling Iraqi soldiers at checkpoints through the city aren't sure whether to wave us through or ask the two stars to stop and pose for photos. There is much laughing and joking and bonhomie.
At Check Point Four into the Green Zone we get apologetic smiles and aren't allowed any further. So I call the British Council and ask them to send a car. We park in some shade about 50 yards from the Check Point and wait. For nearly an hour.
The John Le Carre spy-exchange vibe turns to farce as the BC car and double armoured-car escort doesn't have the right paperwork to cross the bridge to the checkpoint entrance on our side to collect us. Because that is outside the designated Green Zone. We are still in the designated Red Zone. Which is terribly, terribly dangerous. (But not too dangerous to leave us sitting there for an hour, it seems).
My two overdressed stars start to wilt in their suits. There is much flapping by mobile phone. We get bored and decide to go home. The Iraqis shrug and start to crack jokes to cheer me up. I am fuming and vow never to set foot in the Green Zone ever. We change into jeans and order mesguuf. Here in the designated Red Zone. Or as the Iraqis call it, Iraq.
The opinions in this blog are the writer's own.
by Deborah Shaw
| No comments yet
Share this
Previous in World Shakespeare Festival Director's Blog
« Baghdad
Next in World Shakespeare Festival Director's Blog
48 hours in Moscow »