The 28 workers in the RSC Costume Department demonstrate a diverse range of specialist skills. The complex of workshops in Stratford includes a Men's and Ladies' Costume Department, a Dye Department, a Boot and Armoury Department and Hat and Jewellery Department.
From designing to dressing
Costume design is a complex and time consuming process. Often the team only have a few weeks to make a complete set of costumes. The journey begins when the costume designer meets Alistair McArthur, Head of Costume.
"We talk through the general requirements of the design with regard to period," Alistair explains. "Then we discuss the budget and costings." The designer is allocated a Costume Supervisor who will be their right hand person through the rehearsal process. Designers and supervisors involve the actors as much as possible in the design process. At the start of each season over fifty measurements are taken from each actor, including dimensions of head, ankle and forearm.
Next the Designer and the Costume Supervisor begin to sample and buy fabrics, visiting shops in London as well as consulting a large pattern room in Stratford where fabric samples are kept from both national and international suppliers. If the Designer requires a particular colour or pattern, fabric can be dyed or printed by the RSC's Dye Department. Once fabric has arrived it is handed to the Cutters in the workrooms who then draft all patterns themselves according to the specifics of each design. Once the fabric pieces are cut they are handed onto a team of makers who start the construction in time for the first costume fittings.
At the first costume fitting with an actor, which lasts around half an hour, the designer decides on the visual look of the garment while the cutters concentrate on the basic fit and technical aspects of the costume.
Ready for the stage
Before any costume or pair of shoes or boots goes on stage they may be ‘broken down' by the Dye Department. Breaking down is a process of distressing a costume to give it a worn and authentic look. Jacket sleeves can be tied up with string and sprayed with water and left overnight to get authentic creases. Pockets are made to realistically sag by filling with paper or stones. Costumes can be rubbed with sandpaper or soap to make the garment look worn or greasy. The Dye Department also regularly cover boots and shoes with specially made ‘mud'.
The technical rehearsal is a very busy time for the Costume Department. This is when all the lighting and scenic changes are worked out and the actors wear their costumes for the first time. During this period the final technical and artistic changes are made to the costumes.
Getting it right, every night
Once the production is up and running all the costumes have to be maintained on a daily basis. "Maintenance of costumes is often looked upon as a bit of washing, drying and ironing," Alistair explains, "but it's much more than this. Certain fabrics are very delicate and have to be cared for with very special knowledge. All the shirts, tights, socks and other linens have to be washed after each performance. There is a constant list of running repairs. It's a big job and great care must be taken."
Everything the Costume Department makes from a boot to a ball gown is created to last. "People sometimes imagine theatre costumes are held tight with bulldog clips," McArthur laughs, "but nothing could be further from the truth. Whereas an everyday shop bought suit might be worn a few dozen times, an RSC costume will be on stage for well over a 100 performances and so must be made to much higher standards to live up to the rigours of the stage."
